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Bacchanalia
 
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Bacchanalia

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1198 Howell Mill Road30327 Atlanta
United States
T+1 4043650410

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Chef's personal info

Name: Anne Quatrano
Date of birth: 31-01-1959
Origin: United States
Awards:
Women Chefs & restaurateurs Golden Whisk Award 2008 -
 
Owner:
Clifford Harrison
 

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Bacchanalia website
Anne Quatrano & Clifford Harrison: Bacchanalia

Anne Quatrano & Clifford Harrison: Bacchanalia

Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison have been inseparable since meeting as students at the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco. After Graduation in 1987, the Chefs moved to New York, where they worked as a Chef Team at Bimini Twist, La Petit Ferme and The Grolier Club. In 1991, the duo was chosen as part of the James Beard Foundation’s Discovery Chefs of the Year.

This was to be the first of many accolades from the Foundation, including later nods as nominees for the American Express Best Chef of the Southeast award in the years 2000, 2001 & 2002.

1992 brought Anne and Clifford home to family property in Cartersville, Georgia, where Anne designed their award-winning home on Summerland Farm. The home has been featured in Metropolitan Home, Food and Wine, Country Living, Bon Appetit & Great Chefs, Great Kitchens (Design Book). On the farm, their life mirrors their philosophy on food – simplicity with subtle complexities. A barn and show ring has been designed for their horses, and Jersey cows provide milk for Anne and Clifford’s own cheese and butter. Overall, the farm is home to six dogs, twelve horses, six cows, two pigs, six nubian nanny goats, three cats and many messy very free-range chickens!

Originally from Connecticut, Anne attributes her passion for cooking to her paternal Grandmother’s guise in the kitchen. She also apprenticed with Judy Rodgers at Zuni Café in San Francisco while in culinary school. During that same time, Clifford worked with Kusuma Kuray a Sri Lanken Chef in his home State of Hawaii. Both feel the kitchen was their destiny.

These two chefs pride themselves in using locally grown seasonal and organic produce, and much of it is from their own organic gardens. Their three ventures – Bacchanalia, Floataway Café and Star Provisions – provide the perfect outlet for their creativity. Simple presentations belie the talent they pour into the freshest and most innovative of culinary offerings. Numerous kudos Anne and Clifford have received include Food and Wine’s “10 Best New Chefs” award in 1995 and the opportunity to represent Atlanta at the James Beard Olympic Preview in 1996. Bacchanalia was honored in 1998 as an inductee to the Fine Dining Hall of Fame of the National Restaurant Association. They have been featured on CNN’s “On The Menu” and “Hot Chefs,” GPTV’s “Cooking for the Holidays,” The Food Network’s “Great Chefs” and “Ultimate Kitchens,” and “Great Cities” on the Discovery Channel.

When they are not at work, Clifford most likely will be found on the Polo Field, Anne may be found traveling around the States for the Board of Directors of Women Chefs & Restaurateurs or they may be home on the farm throwing the Frisbee into the pool for the dogs to retrieve.

- Bacchanalia website

TheNewYorkTimes.com - Kim Severson
Letting the Land Make a Statement on the Plate

Letting the Land Make a Statement on the Plate

 

Tami Chappell for The New York Times

Anne Quatrano's shirred eggs with roasted heirloom tomatoes.

Tami Chappell for The New York Times

Anne Quatrano, who owns restaurants in Atlanta, prepares shirred eggs with cream and herbs.

HOLDING an egg still warm from the chicken is a wonder. There is promise inside that pale shell.

Even better is the fact that it was gathered from the nest only minutes before by Anne Quatrano, the chef most regularly associated with the great food of Atlanta.

In Ms. Quatrano's hands, the egg will be coaxed into a pure, old-fashioned expression of her farm.

Ms. Quatrano and her loping, polo-loving, Hawaiian-born chef of a husband, Clifford Harrison, share 60 acres of family land about an hour's drive from the three restaurants they run in Atlanta.

The land has been in her family for five generations. Ms. Quatrano, who was raised on the East Coast and worked in the New York area, didn't anticipate a life in Atlanta, let alone on a farm. But the promise of the 1996 Olympics and the draw of the land and family brought her south.

The pair, who met when they were a couple of dedicated culinary students in California during the halcyon days of regional food in the 1980's, run three restaurants and a specialty food store called Star Provisions. ("If you ever told me I would run a grocery store I would have said you're crazy," Ms. Quatrano said).

Their first restaurant, the one that made their reputation, is Bacchanalia. It started as a cozy bistro in a house in the Buckhead neighborhood with an American wine list and a seasonal menu. Over time it transformed dining in Atlanta in the mid-1990's.

The couple went on to open the California-style Floataway Café in 1998, where Mr. Harrison oversees a menu of wood-fire roasted chicken and piccolo fritto, a deep-fried toss of green tomatoes, lemon and Georgia white shrimp.

Last year, they opened Quinones at Bacchanalia, which aims to be a French Laundry of the South. It uses the best of the crop that grows around the couple's compound, including fruit, rare American chestnuts and the kind of herb beds that would make most chefs weak in the knees.

The restaurants are so tied into the spread that a few members of the wait staff spend part of their time tending the garden.

The farm has Jersey milking cows, goats and two pigs, one of which is named Hamlet, or Hammie for short. The couple also raises turkeys, ducks and about 80 chickens, Araucanas and Rhode Island Reds among them.

Although they intended to slaughter poultry, that never came to pass. They love the animals a little too much to kill any of them.

So the farm is filled with what are essentially really big pets, roaming around among their eight dogs and Mr. Harrison's beloved polo ponies, which come to the farm to rest up.

"The turkeys got so friendly and they have so much personality that we just said forget it," Ms. Quatrano said.

Ms. Quatrano learned to cook from her grandmother, who was raised in the Northeast and fell in love with an Italian. Her style evolved into something other chefs often comment on — a sophisticated mix of classic technique, Californian seasonal sensibility and Southern, roll-up-your-sleeves practicality.

She applies all of them to the warm eggs she pulls from under her chickens, the only animals on the farm that seem to work for a living.

The eggs show up on her menus in pastries and pastas; sometimes, softly scrambled, they're eased back into the shells and topped with caviar or a slice of truffle.

But her favorite way to express their simplicity is to shirr them. It's an old-fashioned technique that essentially means baking an egg. In her version, the eggs in ramekins are simmered in seasoned cream that reduces slightly into a soft sauce.

"This is kind of a retro dish you don't see much anymore," she said.

The trick is timing and temperature. The cream should never come to a boil, and the mindful cook should wiggle the ramekin during the process and remove the eggs just when they shimmy like a soft coddled egg.

On the side, Ms. Quatrano prepares a dish that's more reflective of the kind of Mediterranean, seasonal cooking common in many restaurants these days.

She combines quartered heirloom tomatoes or firm cherry tomatoes with branches of rosemary, peeled garlic cloves and olive oil. Roasted until the tomatoes are as soft as pudding, the dish makes for a lovely study in acid and texture.

Combined for brunch, lunch or a light supper, the tomatoes and the eggs say a lot about Ms. Quatrano: Retro and contemporary, working together.

TheNewYorkTimes.com - Kim Severson

AJC.com - Susan Pucket
SOUTHERN RECIPE RESTORATION PROJECT

SOUTHERN RECIPE RESTORATION PROJECT

Anne Quatrano Co-chef/owner of Bacchanalia, Quinones, Star Provisions and Floataway Cafe in Atlanta

Culinary roots: Although reared in New England, Quatrano spent summer vacations visiting Georgia relatives. She and her husband, chef partner Clifford Harrison, have lived since 1992 on the farm in Cartersville that has been in her family since the 1830s.

Career highlights: She and Harrison were named James Beard Foundation's best chefs in the Southeast in 2003. In 2006, Bacchanalia was named one of Zagat's top 10 restaurants in the country, as well as the No. 1 restaurant in Atlanta for the 11th consecutive year.

 

Louie Favorite/Staff
LOUIE FAVORITE / Staff Comfort food par excellence, Anne Quatrano's Potato Boulangere is layers of potato and onion baked to a golden crispy tenderness.
 
Family
Mae B. Stiles with granddaughter Anne Quatrano and son Bill.
 
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Favorite childhood dish: Her grandmother's potato, onion and country ham casserole.

The story: "My maternal grandmother, my Georgia grandmother, Mae B. Stiles, was both environmentally aware and health conscious way before these qualities became fashionable. Her environmental awareness was under the very real guise of pragmatism. She burned, composted, buried and recycled. Her ultimate goal was to have no waste remaining.

"I was amazed at her dedication to this task. She even went as far as to recycle her vegetable poaching liquids into her potable water. To my disgust, this grayish-green liquid was kept chilled in the refrigerator and offered when we asked for a glass of water.

"I remember one dish fondly — it was a potato, onion and country ham casserole. To both my mother's and my recollection, it was sliced potatoes, sliced white onions and country ham baked in a mixture of chicken broth and whole milk. We are quite sure she would not use cream, as her health and fiscal regimen forbade this luxury.

"This was baked in a casserole dish until all components were soft and the top a golden brown. It was served as a main dish, possibly with some several-hour sautéed beans or a simple lettuce salad. I remember having this dish in the small slave cabin my grandmother summered in beside Malbone, the Stiles family antebellum estate along the Etowah River."

How she adapted it: "I think my affection for the dish we call 'potato boulangere' — or, the potatoes prepared by the baker's wife — is a result of this food memory. This dish was often the pillow for a large piece of meat left to slow cook in the embers left after a night of baking bread.

"The recipe, which we have developed over time, replaces the milk of my grandmother's casserole with a rich chicken stock, and although we usually do not stud this potato dish with ham, I have been known at home to add a little ham for memory's sake."

Potato Boulangere

10-15 servings

Hands on: 30 minutes

Total time: 3 hours

A mandoline makes this dish come together quickly, but as always, be careful when using one. To save prep time, slice the potatoes while the onions cook. Be sure to watch the onions while they cook to make sure they soften without browning.

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 onions, sliced

8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

2 fresh thyme sprigs, leaves removed

Salt and black pepper to taste

10 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and very thinly sliced, preferably on a mandoline

1 to 2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth, heated

4 tablespoons butter (1/2 stick), cut in small pieces

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In a heavy-bottomed skillet, add olive oil. Sauté onions and garlic until very soft and wilted. Add thyme and season with salt and pepper. In a large ovenproof casserole, layer potatoes alternately with onions, adding broth in between layers (you may not use all the broth). Season each layer with salt and pepper and dot with butter.

Bake for about 2 hours or until potatoes do not resist a fork and are golden brown on top.

Per serving (based on 10): 216 calories (percent of calories from fat, 25), 5 grams protein, 37 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams fiber, 6 grams fat (3 grams saturated), 12 milligrams cholesterol, 116 milligrams sodium.

AJC.com - Susan Pucket

findarticles.com by Milford Prewitt
Anne Quatrano & Clifford Harrison: of food, love and automobiles

Anne Quatrano & Clifford Harrison: of food, love and automobiles

Before they fell in love with one another, before food brought them together in marriage and business, Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison didn't have a lot in common. She was a Yankee from Connecticut; he was a free spirit from Hawaii. She knew from childhood that she wanted to become a chef He didn't discover his true calling until he was 27.

He had been pursuing a master's degree, with dreams of becoming a history professor. Then a friend asked him to work in a ski resort restaurant, and it changed his career path forever.

Today they are the fun-loving owners of Bacchanalia, a new American restaurant that, at just5 years old and 50 seats, has garnered many culinary honors. One key to the restaurant's success is that nearly 50 percent of the fresh vegetables and herbs served there are grown on Harrison and Quatrano's 60-acre farm.

Titles: Co-owners/co-chefs, Bacchanalia, Atlanta.

Birth dates: Harrison: March 26, 1960; Quatrano: Jan. 31, 1959.

Education: Harrison: University of Hawaii and California Culinary Academy; Quatrano: University of Vermont and California Culinary Academy. Career Highlights: being voted "Atlanta's Most Popular" restaurant in the Zagat Survey's 1996, 1997 and forthcoming 1998 editions; being selected as "Best New Chefs" by Food & Wine magazine in 1996 and Gourmet's 1997 Top Table award for Atlanta.

What came first in your attraction to one another? Was it just good old testosterone and estrogen following nature's script, or was it your appreciation of each other's love for food?

Anne: Oh, I think it was the food and then each other.

Cliff: Yeah, I'd say so, too. We discovered we had common goals after we met in culinary school. Plus she had a car, and I didn't.

What did a car have to do with anything?

Cliff: I could use it whenever I wanted.

Anne: Ha, ha, ha.

Ironic that a car would be central in your relationship in the early days, but today I hear you don't like driving together.

Cliff: Yeah, that's true.

- findarticles.com by Milford Prewitt

 

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