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Mr & Mrs Bund - Modern Eatery by Paul Pairet
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Mr & Mrs Bund - Modern Eatery by Paul Pairet

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Bund 18 6/F, 18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu200002 Shangai
China
T+86 2163239898

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Name: Paul Pairet
Date of birth: Unknown
Origin: France

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Mr & Mrs bund press release
A modern French eatery by Paul Pairet in Shanghai

A modern French eatery by Paul Pairet in Shanghai

The sixth-floor doors at Bund18 swung open to reveal Mr & Mrs Bund on April 8th, 2009. A
modern French eatery, by Chef Paul Pairet and the VOL Group, has been clustered with
gourmands and oenophiles, bon vivants and night owls in town ever since.
Pairet has drawn international acclaim for his avant-garde cuisine; most recently at Shanghai
institution Jade on 36 at the Pudong Shangri-La. VOL is responsible for the city’s iconic Bar
Rouge and Tan Wai Lou, among other ventures. With Mr & Mrs Bund, they train their focus on
something more difficult than either conceptual fine dining or landmark nightspots:
simplicity.

First and foremost, Mr & Mrs Bund is simple. No unnecessary bells and whistles here. The
restaurant is more relaxed than its heritage location may suggest, and despite the prime Bund
address, it errs on the side of understated chic, not show-off ostentatious.
This time, Pairet has turned his exacting talent to popular food – French at its very core,
international around the edges – served family-style, in a manner recast for the modern table.
The menu is anchored on a concept the chef calls – somewhat cryptically – “declension”.
There’s no direct translation, though perhaps ‘thematic variation’ comes close. Think of it as
culinary riffing. You might start by choosing, say, the turbot. Then select the style of
preparation: there’s turbot essential, turbot grenobloise, turbot bearnaise, or turbot truffle new
meuniere. Or maybe you’d rather have the bearnaise sauce with chicken. Or prawns. Nah, beef.
Perchance you’d fancy some frites to mop up the extra truffles, some mashed potatoes over
which to douse the extra grenobloise sauce, or some green beans swimming in meuniere
sauce. Everything’s fair game.


Wine service follows the kitchen’s populist lead. A handsome communal table anchors the
central lounge, flanked by Enomatic wine machines. Leveraging the latest in wine
preservation and service technology, Mr & Mrs Bund is able to – with chests proudly puffed –
offer 32 bottles by the glass, in varying sizes. A personal mix of overlooked gems and
unabashed classics, accessible at all price ranges, occupies both the machines and the full list.
And while it lives in a city of the future, Mr & Mrs Bund’s drinks menu is an homage to the
past. Mixing up classics from the past 200 years – think whiskey bangs that warm from the
inside out, a Fish House Punch with a mean one-two, and Negronis of which Count Camillo
himself would be proud – the cocktail list is a throwback to the good ol’ days. Authentic.
Gorgeous. Look elsewhere for quaffable foams and jellies – this bar deals only in straight-up
sharp shooters. Indeed, in a metropolis that draws more Blade Runner comparisons than any
other, a revival of the classics is a novel concept.


Existentially confused dishes? Not quite. Mr & Mrs Bund is about consensual cuisine – ‘cuisine
for diners’ – and, as such, its menu indulges guests’ flights of fancies and caters to their whims.
Because when a specific craving hits, substitutes and ‘close-enoughs’ are just not good enough.
“Mr & Mrs Bund is a restaurant where the diner, leads, through what they know, through their
own choices,” explains Pairet. “Each diner will, out of all the menu

- Mr & Mrs bund press release

The Sydney Morning Herald - Julia Medew travelled courtesy of V&A Travel
24 hours in Shangai

24 hours in Shangai

Julia Medew strolls along the Bund and tries piping-hot dumplings in the superpower’s trendiest city.
Forget dour visions of communist China. If you want to see the young, bold, playful side of this superpower, Shanghai puts on a spectacular show. While this city of 20 million has a rich colonial story to tell, a visit to the megalopolis is more about the here and now.
For many Chinese, Shanghai is a symbol of progress and change. Funky bars and glitzy restaurants have sprung up next to hawker-style food stands. Designer brands are being sold on the same streets as cheap, locally made suits. With its fascinating architecture, chic eateries and bustling markets, this cosmopolitan city is firing on all cylinders.

7am
The heart of Shanghai is best seen at dawn when there are no honking cars or tourists jostling for
photographic space. Shanghai’s famous promenade on the Huangpu River, the Bund, is at its most serene
in the morning as locals practise tai chi and fly kites. The Bund is home to many art-deco and neoclassical
buildings left behind by European imperial forces. Look out for the Peace Hotel and Bank of China building,
two treasured art deco relics. Across the river lies Pudong, a busy collection of skyscrapers. Pudong is
home to the iconic Oriental Pearl Tower and the Shanghai World Financial Centre, China’s tallest building.
To experience views from the 100th floor of the latter, you can take a ferry from the Bund Museum to Dong
Chang Road ferry terminal. A short bus trip will take you to the building.
Shanghai World Financial Centre, 100 Century Avenue, Pudong New Area. Open 8am-11pm daily. Entry
120 yuan to 150 yuan ($17-$22).

8am
Line up at breakfast for steamed dumplings at Nanxiang Kitchen in Shanghai’s old town. Served in bamboo
baskets, xiaolongbao are traditionally filled with pork but can come with seafood and vegetarian fillings.
They are served with a dipping sauce of black vinegar and freshly sliced ginger. Remember to let them cool
before you take a bite – the fillings are piping hot. While here, beat the crowds and take a stroll through Yu
Yuan Garden, a beautiful example of classic Chinese gardening and architecture.
Nanxiang Kitchen, Yuyuan Bazaar, 378 Fuyou Road. Open from 7am every day. Yu Yuan Garden, 218
Anren Street. Open daily 8.30am-5.30pm. Entry 30 yuan.

 

10am
Take a guided tour through the leafy streets of the French Concession to discover why Shanghai was once
called “Paris of the East”. It has, however, a wacky range of British and Russian architecture with Chinese
elements of feng shui thrown in. This neighbourhood became home to about 6000 French people between
1849 and 1943, as well as taking in thousands of British and American merchants, Russian and German
refugees and Chinese artists and intellectuals. Life in the area is said to have reached debaucherous
heights in the 1920s and ’30s. The French Concession was also home to the first meeting of the Chinese
Communist Party, which took place in 1921 with a young Mao Zedong in attendance. Despite rampant redevelopment, the area retains a lot of its charm and has trendy bars such as Cotton’s, which is inside a
beautiful villa on Anting Road. Expect to see plenty of young people in designer brands with toy dogs and
beware of the hair salons. Some are fronts for brothels.
Spencer M. Dodington’s Luxury Concierge China service runs guiding services including half-day, full-day
or tailor-made itineraries that include the French Concession. Half-day tours start from 2500 yuan. See
luxuryconciergechina.com.

1pm
Join some local hipsters for Shanghainese cuisine at Art Salon. Run by two artist brothers, this quirky little
restaurant in the French Concession is fitted out with retro furniture and serves a selection of local recipes
in quaint antique dishes. Try to get a table in the front window so you can observe locals going about their
business in the tree-lined street outside. The spicy crumbed beef with cumin is a winner, as is the tiny
shrimp mixed with egg, tofu and chives. Trust the owners to serve you the specials of the day. Feel free to
shop while you’re at it, too. Customers can buy almost anything they fancy in the place, from the art
hanging on the walls to the dishes from which they eat.
Art Salon, 164 Nanchang Road. Open 11.30am-4pm and 5.30pm- 9.30pm daily. Most dishes about 100
yuan. Phone +86 21 5306 5462.

2pm
Escape the skyscrapers and smog by taking a train to Hangzhou, a refreshingly green town that Marco Polo
described as heavenly. Its famous West Lake is an enchanting break from the pace of Shanghai. Amid
rolling hills, the misty lake has several causeways for walking or cycling. You can rent a boat to explore
islands or drink tea at pretty tea houses on the banks. Hangzhou is a top destination for Chinese travellers
who flock to enjoy peace and quiet at temples and the Six Harmonies Pagoda. The site is surrounded by
hundreds of replicas of the world’s most well-known pagodas, complete with mini-sized trees. Hangzhou is
also home to silk, tea and Chinese medicine museums. Eleven express trains leave Shanghai South station
for Hangzhou every day from 7.20am. The journey takes about 80 minutes and costs 54 yuan.

7pm
Mr and Mrs Bund is a top French restaurant run by chef Paul Pairet, who has become a celebrity in
Shanghai for turning fine dining into fun dining. Funky tunes are the soundtrack for friendly waiters who
deliver classic French dishes. Highlights include tiger prawns steamed in a glass jar with citrus, lemongrass,
kaffir lime and vanilla. A sweet smell wafts across the table when the jar is opened. The double bread with
shaved truffle and lemon butter foam is special and one dessert will make you want to lick the plate: a
semi-candied lemon full of light lemon sorbet with Chantilly cream and fruit. Wine buffs will love the vending
machine called an enomatic, which allows people to buy a one-third, one-half or full glass of some of the
world’s best wines.
Mr and Mrs Bund, 6/F, Bund 18, 18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu (near Nanjing Dong Lu). Open daily for lunch
starting 11.30am and dinner starting at 6.30pm. Phone +86 21 6323 9898. Set menus from 200 yuan. See
mmbund.com.

10pm
Savour romantic views of Pudong over a nightcap at Glamour Bar, Australian Michelle Garnaut’s sassy hot
spot on the Bund. One level below Garnaut’s restaurant, M on the Bund, this modern establishment is
popular with socialites who flock to sip colourful cocktails at all hours of the night. The bar hosts film
screenings, literary festivals, chamber music performances and book launches. Another great bar to soak
up memorable views is New Heights, a brasserie in the historic Three on the Bund building. Patrons can
snack on crispy roast duck spring rolls on a spectacular terrace. A DJ plays every Friday and Saturday
night. On the same floor of this elegant 1916 building, you will find the entrance to The Cupola, one of
Shanghai’s most elite dining rooms. Guests have to climb up a winding rooftop staircase to enter the tiny
space in the apex of the building. It accommodates a maximum of eight people, who can order from any of
the four restaurants in the building. Beyonce, Tom Cruise and Halle Berry are all said to have eaten here.

- The Sydney Morning Herald - Julia Medew travelled courtesy of V&A Travel

 

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